Thursday, 6 April 2017

Caves and Waves

Not far to drive today but it seemed a full day anyway.  First we did a tour of the Lake Cave, one of many wonderful coasts here on the west coast. This one is only one million years old - not as old as Jenolan Caves in NSW. 
Lake Cave is a stunning pristine chamber deep beneath the earth. Inside the cave a tranquil lake reflects delicate formations that are impressive. There are 350 steps down to the mouth of he cave and you can gaze up at towering karri trees from the floor of the sunken forest. Lake Cave can be described as a mirrored wonderland. There is a 'suspended table' which is a spectacular crystal decoration weighing several tonnes that hangs from the ceiling, almost touching the waters of the lake. It is thought to be the only one of its kind in the world. 
 
After this we did a couple of hours of walking along the Cape to Cape walk.
It was very brooding and windy and quite cold. The ocean was pounding and it was easy to see why so many ships were wrecked along here. This is where in 1879 the Georgette was wrecked. I can remember learning about this in primary school.  The Georgette was beginning to drift into the surf as the swell pushed her closer to the shore and it was then that the stricken vessel was spotted by 30 year old aboriginal stockman Sam Yebble Isaacs. Sam was quick to act and rode to the homestead of his employer Alfred Bussell for help. As the men were away at the time 16 year old Grace Bussell returned to the site with Sam to see what they could do.  By the time they had returned the Georgette's remaining passengers had been loaded into the third lifeboat, which was quickly capsized by the rolling surf. Sam and Grace boldly rode their horses into the pounding surf and out to the capsized lifeboats. Urging passengers to cling to their horses and clothes they carried them into shore. Several trips were made into the surf by Sam and Grace and an exhausting four hours later the passengers and crew were all safely on land at what is now known as Redgate Beach. Out of the 50 passengers and crew only 12 people lost their lives, due to the efforts of this unusual rescue.  Other settlers soon arrived and the passengers and crew were helped back to the Bussell's farm at Wallcliffe, on the Margaret River.  The daring of the rescue made world wide headlines and Grace was hailed as the 'Grace Darling of Australia'. In 1878 the Royal Humane Society awarded medals for their bravery and Grace received a silver medal and Sam a bronze. Clearly Sam was an equal hero on the day but the media focus was on the 16 year old girl from a prominent family. Sam's part in the rescue is now fully acknowledged and he didn't go unrewarded as he was given land as a reward.  Felt a bit tired after our walk and cave explore but we pushed on and visited a small place called Swallows Welcome which was the studio of a watercolour artist which had been recommended to us. We had a rather intense hour as she showed us around her mudbrick house and a flower chapel and a lot of her work which was really lovely. Her husband had been a winemaker but now had fairly advanced dementia and I think she was pleased to have some company. 

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